1/7/2024 0 Comments Cozy grove clamsSeafood prices have risen so rapidly that indeed the first thing the public has noticed is the price. And they expect the diner to accept uncomplainingly breaded seafood straight from the freezer to the fryer. They pass off frozen fish as fresh, or keep fresh fish too long. They offer lobsters for $9, then serve them precooked, waterlogged, tough and tasteless. The more frequently people eat fish, the more they are likely to recognize how good it can be-and demand that it be.Īs for now, though, the seafood restaurants are responding only slowly to such expectations. ![]() Dried out, chewy, greasy, freezer-burned or overripe fish is less likely than ever before to be considered acceptable by the dining public. As it has, however, the public has begun to be more discriminating. Yet fish has become the most popular main dish in Washington restaurants. The simpler the task, it would seem, the less well it is done. But there is no riskier enterprise, in aesthetic terms, than ordering plain broiled fish in a seafood restaurant-except ordering fried seafood in a seafood restaurant. Order a steamed whole fish in a Chinese restaurant, linguine with clams in an Italian restaurant or sole in white wine sauce in a French restaurant, and your chances of eating something delicious are pretty good. After several months of eating in Washington's seafood restaurant, I have found many new ones, some good ones, a few pleasant surprises and one great mystery: Why is it that the more a restaurant specializes, the less likely it is to do that specialty well? This survey has convinced me that the best seafood in Washington is rarely found in seafood restaurants. Their number increases but only rarely their quality. ![]() If you ever doubted that, try making the rounds of Washington's seafood restaurants.
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